Trip Report - Skaha Bluffs

Living an active lifestyle is a huge part of our family values therefore it is embedded in our life as regular as doing laundry.  It is difficult to keep Ben (8) and Liv (6) excited and interested in adventure after adventure nearly every weekend. They will only hike to the top of a mountain so many times before they lose interest.  We do our best to add a wide variety of activities that they enjoy so we can continue exploring and fuel our desire for adventure.

One of those activities is rock climbing.  Kids and rock climbing are perfect for one another. Climbing increases their self confidence, builds strong bodies, teaches trust, and empowers them to think ahead and make good decisions. Patience is important and this along with some rope training and safety lessons make rock climbing a safe and fun sport for the family to enjoy.

Dad setting up top rope, kids warming up with some bouldering, and mom snapping some pictures

Normally our adventures take place on Vancouver Island but yes, sometimes we do travel off the island and when we do, we always seek out local adventure!  A weekend trip to Okanagan Falls and Penticton would mean beach time, wine tours, and golf for many but for us it means exploring a new area any way possible.  That is how we discovered Skaha Bluffs Provincial Park.

Located south of Penticton along the east side of Skaha Lake, this park offers hiking, mountain biking, wildlife viewing (we hiked past several mule deer, watched chipmunks scurry away, and found a bird egg shell) and of course rock climbing! The road leading up to the parking lot is paved, narrow and very curvy.  As I was driving up I thought this road must not be used often thinking two cars would have difficulty passing each other.  Was I wrong!  The two large parking lots were nearly full! Glad we missed the rush of cars leaving!

Can you spot the mule deer?

Skaha Bluffs is popular and for good reason.  There is an extensive system of trails and 592 climbing routes to choose from 64 crags!  Sadly, we only explored a tiny section of this park. We chose to climb the Daycare Crag, name sort of tells it all.  

Daycare Crag at Skaha Bluffs

This crag is for beginners. We were easily able to set up top rope climbing, and had 9 routes to choose from ranging in grade class 5.6 - 5.12.

We each took turns climbing and I will note that everyone climbed to the top, a whopping 65 feet, except for me. I'm OK with that!  Part of the adventure is sharing others accomplishments. As with all adventures a picnic style feast was enjoyed, some laughter, even tears and did I mention the view?

Trail side feast overlooking Skaha Lake near Penticton BC

See more photos of Skaha Bluffs:  Trip report photos - Skaha Bluffs

Every trail tells a story

Tell me to take a hike and I will happily oblige.  Hiking through forests and over mountains never gets old and being able to explore somewhere new on every hike is what stimulates the adventure inside of me.  Hiking on a trail in the middle of nowhere is the one place on earth where I can recharge my spirit, appreciate the beauty of nature, escape life’s responsibilities and enter a world only few dare to travel. 

Often I am intrigued by those who have travelled before me.  What purpose was their hike?  Was it survival, necessity, adventure, or spiritual?  Was it years, months, days or centuries ago? Often I can find these answers with a little online research.  Other times I let my imagination run wild with each clue discovered along the way.

Summit of Mt. Tzouhalem in Duncan, BC

The white cross near the summit of Mt. Tzouhalem was put there by local Catholic churches in the 1970’s.  One can’t help feeling spiritual standing beside the large cross.  What I find to be more interesting is Mt. Tzouhalem is named after a fierce aboriginal chief who successfully led his people in an ambush of northern tribes looking to raid Cowichan Bay for slaves way back in the 1850’s.  Thinking about it sends shivers down my spine.

Rusted old red truck on Wallace Island, BC

Stumbling upon a rusted old red pick-up truck is sure to spark up stories of the past.  This red beauty can be found on Wallace Island and belonged to David Conover.  He had purchased the island in 1946 and developed a holiday resort which is no longer.  There is even a cove named after him, Conover Cove, which provides good anchorage for boaters.  Why was it abandoned in the middle of a field on a remote gulf island?  I have my theories as to why but will let you come up with your own.

The Dark Side climbing area near Nanaimo, BC

Sometimes the discoveries are obvious as to their purpose and not nearly as old.  This man made ladder built with materials literally an arm’s length away serves as a safe passage for climbers to access what they desire most.  Rock walls to climb!  I love these man-made structures.  They are fun to photograph, handy to use and tell a story of determination.  Sadly, this ladder (located at the Dark Side climbing area) has succumbed to the damp west coast weather and a new ladder built with modern day supplies has taken its place.

Suspension bridge along the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail

Not all trail infrastructure is primitive.  If the trail is part of a national or provincial park chances are bridge crossings are modern, sturdy, and safe.  Adventure attracts many outdoor enthusiasts to the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail so I suspect BC Parks has done its part to ensure the safety of all who use the trail.  These bridges are always fun to cross and I wish I could thank the hard working dedicated people who build these bridges.  If you happen to be one, I thank you!

Teddy Bear Junction at Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park
Kelowna, BC

Definitely one of the strangest sites I have even come upon while hiking.   Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park in Kelowna, BC was devastated by forest fires in 2003. While hiking to Rose Lookout we had to pass aptly named Teddy Bear Junction.  I have no idea what the purpose of this site is, even after a quick online search, but the kids sure got a kick out of it.  Wish we had a teddy bear with us to add to the collection but then…who hikes with a teddy bear?



Petroglyph at Jack Point Park near Nanaimo, BC

History is everywhere and it can be found while hiking trails. This Snuneymuxw Petroglyph at Jack Point (near Nanaimo, BC) tells a story of returning salmon and every season a ceremony was performed to ensure plenty for the community. Removed from its original location in the 70’s (where it sat in a museum), it was returned in the fall of 2008.  I have not been able to figure out the age of the petroglyph.  Sit beside this petroglyph, close your eyes, and as you listen to the waves crash ashore images of the salmon’s epic journey near the end of its life cycle are sure to appear.  



Creative woodworking along the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail

In order to get where you need to go, obstacles are in the way.  I love how many west coast trails use these obstacles to a hikers advantage.  I will never tire climbing up and down fallen tree carved stairs.  Each step I wonder when did the tree fall, did it block the trail or become the trail, and who carved all these stairs? 

Hidden shack west of Nanaimo, BC

A rustic, moss covered shed in the middle of nowhere.  Perfect for photographs and always a cool discovery.  Why this shed is here I do not know.  I suspect it has to do with mining or forestry, given the area we were in but who knows.  (Near McKay Lake west of Nanaimo) I was surprised to see it had not been vandalized or covered in graffiti like many other cabins and historical landmarks in the area.  There is still a story to be told here and hopefully others can discover it for a story of their own.

Cape Beale trail near Bamfield, BC

I love trail signs.  Even though I hike remote trails to get away from the modern world hoping to find nature I love finding trail signs.  I probably have an entire album of trail signs and love the craftsmanship that goes into each sign.  Some more than others, but I enjoy them all. This one was on a hiking trail near Bamfield, BC but if I were to choose the group who puts everything they got into their signs, hands down mountain bikers win! 

Perfect moment

Not every discovery is practical, required, or rich in history but when the hike ends with a spectacular view like this, I am glad those who have travelled before me took the time to create this swing.  Watching my son swing as the sun sets over Heriot Bay is the perfect way to end a day of adventure.  I suspect many before me share a story very similar to this.

Stepping back in History through Adventure

In the wee hours of February 12, 1945, a Royal Canadian Air Force Canso 11007 set off on a routine flight until something unexpected happened.  Shortly after take-off one of the engines died and the pilot made an attempt to turn back causing the Canso to lose altitude and crash. 

“Did anybody die in the crash?” asks Ben very concerned.

“Remarkably, no one died.” I respond easing my sons worries. “The 12 men and one woman on board all survived.”

The story was a page from WWII history and I was feeding tidbits of the crash to Ben and Liv as we hiked through the dense coastal forest of the Pacific Rim National Park en-route to the site of the crash. 

“What did the planes do during WWII?” questioned Liv. 

I replied “During WWII Canada feared the Japanese were planning an invasion so the Canadian military positioned themselves all along the Pacific coast.  Radar stations and bombers were used to detect possible enemy submarines and paper balloon bombs that would have been sent from Japan.” This tidbit of info was followed with silence.  I suspect imagining submarines beneath the waters we surf and paper balloon bombs floating around Tofino was enough to fill Ben and Liv’s young and curious minds. 

The silence did not last long.  Hiking through the coastal rainforest quickly turned to trudging through wet sloppy mud.  Now the conversation was all about whose boot went deeper into the mud and which way does the trail go? 

 

 

“How did the people on the plane find their way back home through all this in the dark?” exclaimed Ben with boot now fully submerged in mud.

“Well, some of the people on board were injured; a broken nose, sprained ankle, cuts and bruises.  Things like that so they did not simply walk out.  They spent the night here using the emergency supplies on board and waited for search and rescue who reached them the next morning.  Then they would have walked through all this!” I answered with mud oozing out from under me. 

Even after almost losing a few boots we managed keep the mud waist down and soon found ourselves standing in an open bog.  As I looked around I realized we were almost to the crash site. 

“Hey! Ben and Liv. The plane would have flown right over here before impact.” I noted as I swung my arm back and forth into the air. “I bet some of these scrubby trees were topped by the wings!” I said looking out across the bog.  “How do you know?” inquires Liv. 

“I read the pilots first-hand account of what happened.  I guess he went to make a 180 degree turn but lost altitude and managed to slow the plane by pulling it into a full stall landing at impact right at the edge of a plateau that led into a hill.  Tell me, does this look like a plateau?” I say waving both arms around and point. “And is that a hill?”

Excitement grew just as it had over 68 years ago but today it was because of discovery, not fear. During our entire hike I prepared Ben and Liv for what they were about to witness.  It is not every day one comes upon a plane wreckage in the middle of the forest.  It was important that I share with them the story of why it happened, how it got here and tales of survival.  The moment the aircraft came into view can only be described as shock and awe.  Embedded 50 feet up the hill with logs and trees every which way was the Canso 11007.  The tail of the aircraft loomed above us, completely in tack. 

 

 

“Dad, is it safe to walk under the plane?  You always say not to walk under things that are not sturdy.” says Liv, cautiously approaching the hill. 

“It’s OK.  Thanks for asking and your right.  Normally we do not walk under things that look unstable but this plane has been resting here for over 68 years exactly how it did the day it crashed so I would say it is ok.”  Dad reassures her.  Slowly making our way up the hill beside the aircraft I could clearly see the fuselage and the front wings spread out across the aircraft.  Considering its age and crash, the plane was in remarkable shape and much larger than I had imagined it to be. 

 

 

I mentioned this to Ben and he said “It is other than the large holes on the side and smashed nose.”  

“The holes were not entirely due to the crash.” I state. “The smashed nose, yes but apparently a few Air Force personnel came back to the crash site to remove the bombs, radios, and machine guns. Then they blew two holes in the fuselage to destroy the aircraft’s secret radar gear.”  That had Ben thinking for a while but soon he was asking more questions. 

“What are those round things on the ground beside the plane?” he asked. 

“Those are the engines.  Maybe if you look closer you can figure out which one had the faulty magneto that caused it to stop working?” I replied with a smirk.  With that, Ben set off to explore the engines and get a closer look at the hull of the aircraft. 

 

 

The four of us each took time examining the plane, noting damage from the crash, speculating where everyone was sitting and admired the graffiti decorating the plane.  This adventure gave us a unique glimpse back in history and a better sense of what WWII looked like on the Pacific Coast.  As we were leaving the crash site I pointed out a perfectly round pond that was a couple hundred feet away from the wreckage. 

 

 

“Cool, are there any frogs in there?” asks Liv.

“Maybe?” I replied.  “Want to know what made this pond?” Ben and Liv both nod. “This is where the four bombs that were on the plane, or depth charges as they called them, were detonated after the crash.”

 Again silence until Liv sighs “Poor frogs.”

A gift for Mother Nature

For the past six years the natural environment has been a huge part of my life.  It has provided me and my family with endless outdoor adventure, learning opportunities, appreciation, happiness, amazing memories, time together and has allowed us all to take personal “risks” that no doubt have made us better people because of it.  How do you say thanks or express gratitude towards nature?  It was time to figure out how.

As a family we do our part to help “save the environment”.  Recycle, reuse, compost, garden, buy local, and conserve energy as much as possible.  Hardly “saving the environment” but every bit counts.  What I really wanted was to do something for Mother Nature, something bold, something I could look back on and say, hey I was a part of that and it made a difference.  Being part of a cave conservation and restoration project was exactly what I was looking for.  Surely Mother Nature will appreciate the surface of her caves scrubbed by hand with a bunch of dedicated volunteers armed with brushes of every variety!  Ben, Liv and I had the opportunity to assist Horne Lake Caves and their grand and tedious undertaking to restore Main Cave back to its glory. 

The goal of this project is to remove the dirt that has built up on the calcite formations and bring it back to its natural state.  Caver impact such as tracking dirt in and touching calcite will cause minerals on the cave surface to change from a bone white to a murky brown.  With a little TLC, elbow grease, and monitoring cave activity, Main Cave will one day look just as it did hundreds of years ago.  I am proud to say that Ben, Liv and I had a small part in helping make this happen! It felt good to give Mother Nature her day at the spa (exfoliation treatment and hydrotherapy). 

One day the brown calcite will be white again!

Conservation for all ages!

Scrubbing calcite was not the only thing we did to say thanks to Mother Nature.  On Earth Day, Ben, Liv and I gave back to Mother Nature once again…this time it was removing invasive species.  Invasive species, like English Ivy, impact our natural ecosystems by choking out native plants and wrap around mature trees, killing them prematurely reducing food and shelter for local wildlife. 

Pile of English Ivy removed from forest

This time we teamed up with the Town of Ladysmith, Parks Rec and Culture, and LaFF (a non-profit organization where I happen to be the adventure guide for the outside program) and spent a morning with 50+ families and helped remove English Ivy along the forest trails of a local park.  Stewardship, community involvement, education, volunteering and fun all wrapped up and given to Mother Nature on Earth Day. 

Was it my gift to Mother Nature or did Mother Nature give back to me? Something tells me I owe her again…Mother Nature is amazing!

Crawl, wriggle, and squeeze in some adventure - Go Caving!

Caving has always been on the adventure list of things to do with my family.  Vancouver Island, or as cavers like to call “Island of the Caves”, has more explored limestone caves than all other Canadian provinces combined.  4% of Vancouver Island’s surface area is karst landscape making it the highest concentration of caves in North America. (Source: cancaver.ca)  With just over 1000 documented caves and some 1800 more thought to be out there, the time had come for us to venture to the dark side! 



A spacious cave entrance perfect for the whole family.

Spelunking is the act of exploring caves and it is a perfect fit for us.  We already rock climb so some of our gear can be used for both sports.  Caving fuels our passion for outdoor adventure by exploring new places and trying new things.  Bonus is the caving community happens to be full of warm, inviting, and the most encouraging group of people I have ever met.  One of the oldest caving organizations in Canada, the Vancouver Island Cave Exploration Group (VICEG) is open to anyone interested in speleology. VICEG works to conserve caves for the appreciation of future generations and members are not thrill seekers rather they explore, study, and locate caves while promoting safe caving practices, fellowship, and bring awareness to cave conservation.

Recently my family and I were invited to attend a VICEG event called the Midwinter Madness held at Horne Lake Caves.  Here members, family and friends gathered for two days to enjoy a variety of caving activities.  We had the opportunity to get some hands on experience in rope descends, climbed down cable ladders, rappelled into caves, learned about cave mapping, watched cave search and rescue scenarios, and enjoyed group cave tours with fellow cavers.  In between all these fascinating activities were caving stories told by veteran B.C. cavers and home movies of caving trips from Vancouver Island and around the world.  It was a weekend full of adventure, fun, friendships and knowledge.

Liv descending 20ft on a cabble ladder into a cave

Prior to this caving event our time spent underground was minimal.  We began caving as a family back in July 2012 at Upana Caves near Gold River.  Even though this was a first for us, I treated caving like any other outdoor adventure we did; prepared the gear, researched online, and had conversations with Ben and Liv about what we were doing and what to expect.  That first trip was successful by all accounts and left us wanting more cave adventures.  We picked up caving again in Dec 2012 (thanks to a story I was working on) when we met some amazing cavers who really showed us what caving is all about.  Aside from adventure and exploration, caving offers a wide selection of activities and interest.  Photography, biology, geology, archeology, surveying, mapping, search and rescue, and conservation can all be enjoyed while caving.

What kid would not love to wriggle into a hole in the ground?
One entrance into Andre's Annex at Horne Lake Caves

For the past three months we have explored several caves on Vancouver Island and the knowledge, skills, and friendships we have developed is amazing.  Caving provides the four of us an opportunity to adventure together while satisfying our own interests.  For me, finding caves is what I like best. How caves are made, where to find them, and in what type of landscapes is what interests me.  I could hike through forests looking up and down ancient creek beds for cave entrances all day if I had to.  Joel’s interest is the technical side of caving.  He enjoys using and learning about the specialized equipment required for caving; like ropes, harnesses, safety gear, and search and rescue related activities.  Pushing deeper into the darkness not knowing what lies ahead is exhilarating for some and terrifying for others.  This is what Ben (7) enjoys the most about caving and the tighter the passage the better.  His caving gear is by far the dirtiest of all.  What interests Liv (5) is what lies deep within the cave.  Caves are home to many critters; spiders, crickets, moths, salamanders, and bats.  She is quick to point them out and often can give me an accurate tally of how many crickets we just crawled past.  I hope she never counts a bear!

View? What view? I came for the adventure!

I start to become restless in February and March.  I am pretty much done with winter activities on the island by then.  Driving the same road to go downhill skiing, hiking in the rain, wet shoes after every trail run, searching for new places to snowshoe only to be stopped by locked forestry gates, and freezing wet hands while bike riding.  For the most part, I love doing all this!  All I am saying is...it is time for summer.  Time for beaches, river snorkeling, rock climbing, backpacking, kayaking, caving, tshirts, shorts, sunshine and good old summertime bbq's!  See what I mean... depressing when you start to think about it.   But then something special happens that reminds me to embrace what I have, enjoy the not so perfect moments, and fall in love with adventure all over again no matter the time of year.

Life commitments have been dominating our time lately.  All good, fun, and rewarding but it has taken a toll on our weekend adventuring as a family.   Another reason I have become restless, lack of adventure.  It is so easy to fill up spare time with a little extra work or a few emails here and there, tinker around the house and a quick phone call to finish one project before beginning another.   That is exactly what was suppose to happen one grey, cloudy, rainy day until my adventure partner proposed an idea.

"Hey, what time do we have to pick up the kids from school?" Joel, my husband asked.

"2:15 same time as always" I replied with a smirk.

"And we only have the one quick appointment at 10?" he asked noting my smirk.

"Yip,why?" I replied with intrigue. "What's up?"

"I say we forget about everything else we had planned to do today and run to the top of Mt. Benson. It's been a while since we did something like that together. What do ya say?" he said.

"You had me at hey!" I replied followed by "Of course I say yes!"

At first I felt guilty to be leaving a list of things to do behind.  Even worse was heading out for an adventure without Ben and Liv but once we were on the trail all of life's responsibilities and guilt disappeared.   For a few short hours all that mattered was who I was with and the task at hand: get to the top of Mt. Benson.

Mt. Benson is the highest mountain in the Nanaimo area.   It sits just west of Nanaimo and will reward those who climb to the top with a stunning panoramic view.  Trail access is on Benson View Rd at Witchcraft Lake.   We used Trail #1, Old Road, and Rafe's Way to reach the summit of Mt. Benson. We hit patches of snow at Old Road which quickly turned to complete snow covered trails on Rafe's Way.   It would have been wise to have ice grips and avoid the risk of sliding down the mountain but we were not wise this day.   It would have been wise to summit Mt. Benson on a clear day to take in as much of the view as possible but we were not wise this day.

However, our lack of wisdom created a special moment and allowed us to be kids again.  If we had used ice grips we would never have experience the adrenaline rush of sliding down the narrow steep trail (sometimes with trees surrounding us, other times with drop offs to one side) on our feet, hands and butt!   At one point I slipped out of control, arms and legs flailing everywhere, heading right for a tree but thankfully crashed into Joel.   We laughed so hard I was crying!  There were times I could hear Joel up ahead yelling "yeehaw" and I knew that meant a slippery steep section was coming up. Who needs ice grips anyway?

Of course I would have preferred to summit Mt. Benson on a clear sunny day but how many people can say they reached the top to enjoy a complete whiteout?  Even in these conditions the view is breathtaking.   It's magical, mysterious, eerie and beautiful all at the same time.   It is not the first time Joel and I have reached a summit in whiteout conditions and for some strange reason I prefer it that way.

View from the summit of Mt. Benson.  Picture perfect whiteout.

As we made our way down the mountain all of life's responsibilities started to come back but that was ok.   The to do list's did not seem as daunting now plus I was filled with adventure energy and was ready to tackle the world.  But first I needed to eat, running to the summit and back (7km, 719m elevation change in 2 1/2 hours) works up quite an appetite.

"Shall we do lunch?" I asked.

"Thought you'd never ask." winked Joel.

A weekend’s adventure brought to you by the letter “S”

At first I did not notice the connection between the weekend’s activities planned.  Some of it was part of our regular life, some of it was inspired by adventure, some of it was timing of the season, and some of it happened spontaneously!  There were similarities between some activities but together the five activities of the weekend had nothing in common.  Two activities required water but in different forms; liquid and frozen.  Three activities required special footwear and two of these needed helmets.  Three activities required helmets and two of these needed special footwear. (Confused yet?)  Four were outdoor activities and one resulted in total darkness while another was as bright as could be.   So what was the one connection between all these activities?  The letter "S".  Skating, Soccer, Swimming, Spelunking, and Skiing.

Skating is one of our regular family activities.  As important as it is to get your kids active, it is equally important to be active with your kids.   Sometimes grandpa takes the kids skating, sometimes dad and Ben go to “Stick n Puck”, and other times it’s me, Ben and Liv enjoying ice time.   Skating is an activity that is perfect for everyone, affordable, rentals available (if needed), and fun.

Soccer is the sport of choice for Ben and Liv.    We are lucky to be able to play outside all year (Sept – March) on Vancouver Island.  Soccer keeps the kids active during the week, builds self-confidence and teaches them about teamwork and commitment.  It is a family event.  Either you’re playing or watching and cheering on the teams.

Swimming is a favorite for kids.  Anytime we have a free weekend they are asking to go to the pool (or river/ocean/lake in the summer).  Swimming was the spontaneous activity for the weekend.  I have learned over the years to pack swim suits no matter what.

A Spelunking adventure at Horne Lake Caves

Did you know that Vancouver Island is referred to as the “Island of the caves”?  With close to 1000 documented caves and some 1600 more thought to be out there, it was just a matter of time before we ventured to the Dark Side!  Spelunking is the act of exploring caves and it is a perfect fit for us.  We love exploring new places and trying new things.  Joel’s interest in ropes/safety meshes well with the rope descends and vertical pitches that caving offers.  We already rock climb so some of our gear can be used for both sports.  Bonus is the caving community happens to be full of warm, inviting, friendly, and the most encouraging group of people I have ever met.  There are some amazing stories to be told within the caving community and I am honoured to be able to share one with you….soon! (I wrote an article on an amazing Vancouver Island caving kid.)

On top of Mt. Washington

I will admit skiing was not on my “adventure” list of things to do before the kids came along or when I lived in Alberta.  But, when you can drive to a mountain from home, ski all day, and then return back home (to green grass) all on the same day then I am in.  Take that and add in the excitement of your kids and watching them improve and you get a mom who now adds skiing to the list of adventure things to do. 

I could go on and on with all the “S” related items during the weekend’s adventure.  It was Saturday and Sunday, we ate sandwiches and sushi, one child was sick, the other silly…. and when it was all said and done I realized there was one more “S” adventure we could have added the mix.  

Surfing!  Time to wax the boards; I feel a west coast adventure coming on!